The Endangered Legacy of Hyderabad’s Iconic Irani Cafes

iconic Irani café in Hyderabad

Imagine the comforting aroma of freshly baked bun maska (bread and butter), the crispness of piping hot samosas, and the warmth of a creamy cup of Irani chai. These are the familiar sights and smells that have welcomed generations of visitors to Hyderabad’s iconic Irani cafes. With their marble-topped tables, vintage clocks, chequered floors, and a menu steeped in tradition, these cafes have been a cornerstone of India’s cultural heritage for over a century.

Originating in the 18th and 19th centuries with the arrival of Persian immigrants, Irani cafes quickly became a beloved part of Indian urban life, particularly in cities like Mumbai, Pune, and Hyderabad. The influence of these cafes even reached far beyond India’s borders, inspiring popular international chains like Dishoom in London.

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Hyderabad, a city deeply rooted in history and culture, became home to numerous Irani cafes, thanks to its role as a hub for Iranian trade in the late 19th century. Under the rule of a Muslim Nizam, Persian was widely spoken, and the city’s connection to Iran was strong. Many Persian families sought refuge in Hyderabad from persecution and famine back home, bringing with them a unique style of tea—creamy, sweet, and unlike anything India had seen before. This marked the beginning of a distinct Irani chai culture, which quickly spread throughout the city.

By the 20th century, Irani cafes were ubiquitous in Hyderabad, with patrons from all walks of life gathering to enjoy tea, conversation, and even a little music from the café jukebox. These cafes became more than just eateries; they were symbols of secularism and social unity, where people of all religions and castes could come together.

However, despite their rich cultural significance, these cafes are now facing extinction. The number of Irani cafes in Hyderabad has dwindled from around 450 two decades ago to just 125 today. The challenges are many: competition from global fast-food chains, skyrocketing real estate prices, and the rising cost of essentials like tea and milk. For café owners like Jaleel Farooq Rooz of The Grand Hotel, which his family has run since 1951, these pressures have led to a significant decline in business. Where they once sold 8,000-9,000 cups of tea a day, that number has now halved.

The rapid development of Hyderabad into a major IT hub has only added to the pressure, as new economic reforms and the influx of international food chains have changed the city’s culinary landscape. Unlike the spacious, relaxed environments of Irani cafes, these new eateries offer modern amenities and a wider variety of options, drawing away many younger customers.

Moreover, the next generation of Irani families is increasingly disinterested in continuing the café tradition, opting for different careers or moving abroad. As a result, many historic cafes have closed, unable to keep up with the demands of the modern market.

Yet, amidst these challenges, a few determined individuals are striving to keep the Irani café tradition alive. Syed Mohammed Razak, who manages the Red Rose Restaurant, is one such example. Despite the difficulties of running a business based on “just chai and biscuits,” Razak has introduced new dishes to the menu and leveraged his skills as a graphic designer to promote his café online. For him, it’s about more than just business—it’s about preserving his family’s legacy.

Loyal customers also play a crucial role in sustaining these cafes. Many have been visiting for generations and continue to return for the unique taste of Irani chai. As Yanni, a regular at the Grand Hotel, puts it, “Irani tea is a part of my life. I love the taste and drink it every time I step out. There is nothing like it even today.”

The fate of Hyderabad’s Irani cafes may be uncertain, but their legacy endures in the hearts of those who cherish them. For now, they remain a vital part of the city’s cultural tapestry, offering a glimpse into a bygone era with every cup of chai.

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Adapted from BBC

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